Close encounter of the Lammergeier kind
We had a day out in the snow on Friday testing some new crampons. To top off an already great day on our drive back down the mountain I noticed an enormous bird flying up from below us. In my head I w...
The Return Journey, A Patagonian Farewell
The journey home was a breeze, a stark, welcome contrast to the stress and queues of the outward leg. This was the easy part, a long exhale after over a month of wonders.
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The Hidden Lake, To Share or Not to Share?
Water of a piercing blue, fringed by beaches of sand the colour of the Sahara. We were, of course, immediately captivated. A plan was formed.
The Condor's Call, A Test of Patience in Patagonia (Part 2)
The condors taught us that the most magnificent views often lie just beyond the point where you think you can wait no longer
A Hidden Loop - Discovering the Eastern Side of the Río de las Vueltas Valley
A short walk from the edge of El Chaltén, a metal bridge offers a gateway to the quieter, eastern side of the Río de las Vueltas valley. Our destination was vague, but the promise of exploration led u...
Feathered Findings November 19th, 20th & 21st
Some of my favourite finds, and log, from a 3 day camping trip. Magellanic Woodpecker Crested Caracara Ashy-headed Goose Patagonian Sierra Finch Austral Negrito White-browed Ground Tyrant Dark-f...
Down Memory Lane to the Refugio del Fraile
A return to a classic Patagonian refuge reveals how the landscape, and the experience of trekking through it, has transformed over nearly two decades. The Rio Electrico Valley felt familiar, but the s...
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Canuto de Paredón, El Chalténs Best-Kept Secret
The weather has finally cleared. After being cooped up by a spell of bad weather, we needed a hike to shake off the rust. The perfect solution? A half-day adventure in the Cerro Paredón hills, a range...
Expedition to the Bridge - A Tale of Patagonian "Toughness"
We fancied ourselves tough. I mean, genuinely hardy. Our resumes boasted five expeditions across the great Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, a place where the wind is less a weather phenomenon and more a p...
Feathered Findings November 16th
Some of the finds from Sunday's walk. We seized a small break in the Patagonian weather for a walk to Chorillo del Salto. As I write this on Monday, it's snowing in town—you've got to love a Patagonia...
From Pizzas to Pesos - A Foodies Guide to Eating in El Chalten
Food, Glorious (and Sometimes Surprising) Food When we first arrived in El Chalten in 2006, the dining scene was simple: one restaurant. Return today, and you’re met with a dizzying array of choices....
Chorillo del Salto and a Race Against the Patagonian Wind
We were stealing a day. Sandwiched between brutal weather alerts for wind and rain, we had a precious half-day window. The target? Chorillo del Salto, a popular waterfall just outside El Chalten. A 9k...
The Apartment
We’ve been housebound, or more accurately, apartment-bound, for the last few days. The reason? Patagonia is showing off outside our window with hurricane-force winds and driving rain that could strip...
A Windy morning on Cerro Antenna
The Patagonian weather is finally breaking. After days of settled conditions, the script has flipped: while patches of sun still linger, the peaks are now swaddled in cloud, and the wind has arrived w...
Feathered & Furry Findings November 13th
Some of my favourite finds from today's half day walk up a windy Cerro Antenna. Andean Condor Guanaco Long-tailed Meadowlark Just as predicted, it’s a windy day in El Chalten. We seized a brief lull...
Feathered Findings November 10th
Some of my favourite finds from our aborted bivvy on Loma de Pliege Tumbado. After my illness cost us several good weather days, we decided to seize a narrow window for a hike. The climb was a gruelin...
How a Bottle of Malbec Lured Me Off the Mountain
"I don't think the clouds are going to change color," Kiersten said, her voice barely audible over the wind screaming across the ridge. I grunted, a non-committal "Hmmmm," that hid the battle raging i...
Feathered Findings November 7th & 8th
Some of my favourite finds during our two day camping trip to Laguna Torre, returning via a Laguna Capri. The Torrent Duck obviously has it's own post. I love the light that shines through the Lenga...