Kiersten Rowland

Adventures, wildlife, and life in the Alpujarras

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly of Laguna Torre

Just back from a stunning two-day backpacking trip to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the mighty Cerro Torre. We're committed to honest travel tales, the sublime, the frustrating, and the downright ridic...

patagonia, hiking

A Double Dose of Duck Delight on the Río Fitzroy!

A Double Dose of Duck Delight on the Río Fitzroy!

Talk about a lucky day in Patagonia! We were treated to the spectacular sight of not one, but two stunning male Torrent Ducks riding the rapids of the Río Fitzroy. These aren't your average pond ducks...

patagonia, wildlife

Feathered Findings November 6th

Feathered Findings November 6th

Some of my favourite finds from a potter about town. I've been feeling pretty rough with some bug I've caught, I'm hopeful I'm over the worst now so I'm catching up with some pictures. The first pictu...

patagonia, wildlife

Patagonian Patience and Dive-Bombing Birds

Patagonian Patience and Dive-Bombing Birds

Sometimes, the most challenging part of an adventure isn't a gruelling hike or a blizzard on a pass—it's the patience required when your plans are put on hold. Today was a lesson in exactly that. A fa...

patagonia, el-chalten

A Tale of Foiled Plans and Four-Hour Pints

A Tale of Foiled Plans and Four-Hour Pints

Greetings from the bottom of the world, where the weather is as predictable as a coin flip and the beer is cheaper than a decent cup of coffee. First, a mission statement. We’re not here to sell you a...

patagonia, el-chalten

Feathered Findings November 4th

Feathered Findings November 4th

Some of my favourite finds today from a circular walk just by town.  American Kestrel  White-browed Ground Tyrant Andean Condor Spectacled Duck Chilean Flicker American Kestrel White-browed Ground Tyr...

patagonia, wildlife

Peaks, Condors, Ducks and Clear Skies

Peaks, Condors, Ducks and Clear Skies

Another day, another slow pace: just 8km in 5 hours. But today, we have some pretty good excuses. I'm walking away from the Cerro Torre and Mt Fitzroy skyline Our first detour was to the Mirador de Có...

patagonia, hiking

Pappardelle alla Rustica con Cime di Broccolo e Salsa Pomodoro Affumicata

Pappardelle alla Rustica con Cime di Broccolo e Salsa Pomodoro Affumicata

A symphony of artisanal, sun-dried durum wheat pappardelle, generously enveloped in a slow-cooked passata di pomodoro. This foundation is elevated by a confit of sweet, translucent gold shallots, offe...

patagonia, el-chalten

Smooth Move, Supermarket Chaos & Happy Hour Luck

Today marked a little shift in our Patagonian adventure. We said a temporary goodbye to the wonderful Gabriella at the Hotel Confin Patagonico (thanks to Claudia and Jorge who gave us a fantastic deal...

patagonia, el-chalten

An Inadequate Description of a Perfect Patagonian Hike

An Inadequate Description of a Perfect Patagonian Hike

Let me start with a confession: I am utterly unequipped to do today’s hike justice. My vocabulary fails me, and while I’m a perfectly acceptable photographer, my images are but pale echoes of the real...

patagonia, hiking

Feathered Findings November 2nd

Feathered Findings November 2nd

White-browed Ground Tyrant A few of my favourite finds today from a circular walk taking in three mountain lakes and Cerro Paredon above the town of El Chalten. A new bird for me, if I'm correct in my...

patagonia, wildlife

Hair Drying in Patagonia

Patagonia is known for its ferocious winds. Today they were generally light but there were occasional strong gusts. Kiersten took advantage of this to give her hair some styling. Video

patagonia, el-chalten

Day 1 Rio de las Vueltas, Pumas, Pesos, and Pre-Owned Cars

Day 1 Rio de las Vueltas, Pumas, Pesos, and Pre-Owned Cars

The day began, as so many do, at the National Park office. It was a visit that proved more worthwhile than we could have imagined. We were hit with the news straight away: a whopping $45 per person, p...

patagonia, hiking

Feathered Findings November 1st

Feathered Findings November 1st

A few of my favourite finds today from a walk beside the Rio de Las Vueltas. Austral Thrush Southern Lapwing Patagonian Sierra Finch Black-chinned Siskin Rufous-tailed Plantcutter Austral Thrush Aust...

patagonia, wildlife

The Final 3 Hours of Travelling

The Final 3 Hours of Travelling

After a tough, frustrating 45 hours of difficult travelling, the final 3 hours were unmitigated bliss! The gods were smiling down on us as we approached El Chalten and the magnificent Mt Fitzroy welco...

patagonia, travel

The Finest Journey of All (How We Stopped Being Grumpy Gits)

The Finest Journey of All (How We Stopped Being Grumpy Gits)

If you’ve been following this TravelLog, you’d be forgiven for thinking we’re two joy-sucking vampires who hate fun, sunlight, and functional transportation. The journey had been a masterclass in frus...

patagonia, travel

Everything interesting that happened in 13 hours

A 45 second video summary of a 13 hour night flight from Madrid to Buenos Aires. The first time I've had my safety demonstration done, not by the plane stewards, but in this case, by the Argentine foo...

patagonia, travel

Queues, queues and wacky races

Queues, queues and wacky races

I'm British. Queuing is supposed to be in my blood, a national sport I'm meant to excel at. But it turns out, I absolutely hate it. What I truly love is the alternative I'm experiencing right now: bei...

patagonia, travel

Madrid Airport

Madrid Airport

Well, that was stressful. From arrival at the airport to sitting down with a well deserved beer took 2.5 hours!  Long queues at checkin/bag drop, security and passport control. Making me think serious...

patagonia, travel

Starting the Journey

It's always quite a sad moment when we go on our travels to leave home and our dogs. Even more so when it's an extended trip. Do they sense it will be a lengthy parting or is it just us assuming so? S...

patagonia, travel